Guinea Pig Care and Information

Before adoption/purchase--water

2008-06-04T08:05:00.001-05:00

Guinea pigs, like all living creatures, require a constant source of clean drinking water. There are two options when deciding how to supply your pig with drinking water: a non-tipping, ceramic dish placed directly inside the cage or a water-bottle that hangs from the cage. Regardless of the method you choose there are a number of things to keep in mind to assure your pigs are receiving an adequate amount of water.

Ceramic Water dishes:

It is very important that the dish you choose is non-tipping or the first time your pet tries to drink they will receive a bath instead.
The dish needs to be shallow enough that the smallest pig in the cage is able to reach the water.
The water must be changed every time it is soiled (whether it is by food, pellets, hay, or feces).
The dish needs to be washed, preferably in the dish washer if you have access to one, at least weekly.
Dishes designed for this use can be purchased at most large pet supply stores (they even have ones with little piggy footprints decorating the sides of the bowls).

Water-bottles:

These are extremely convenient and can be purchased at any pet supply store.
These are designed to either hang inside the cage or outside the cage, depending on the size and design of the bottle.
It is important that the spout of the bottle be made out of metal or your pet will be able to chew through the spout.
The water should be changed daily and the water bottle should be thoroughly cleaned, inside and out, weekly or the bottle may become clogged.
It is important to also clean the inside of the spout or bacterial growth will occur and this may clog the bottle or worse, make your pet sick.
After refilling the bottle, and hanging the bottle back on the cage, run your finger over the ball inside the spout to assure that water is flowing freely.

It is a good idea to get into the habit of checking your guinea pig’s water frequently, at least several times a day. Check the water each time you place anything inside their cage or when you remove them from the cage. Although guinea pigs are relatively small pets they consume a large amount of water. (My two finish a 16oz bottle every day.) Guinea pigs also have a tendency to play with their water bottle so it is possible that they will run out in the middle of the day.

It is also a good idea to check the water level in the bottle after refilling it. After a couple of hours, the level in the bottle should be lower. If it is not, the bottle may be clogged or your guinea pig may be sick.

If you are worried that your guinea pig is not drinking enough water during the summer, provide your pig with a little dark green lettuce in the middle of the day. Italian varieties of lettuce are the best because they have nutrients not found in regular head lettuce. Remember, the darker the better. You can also find some varieties of reddish tinted lettuce, like radicchio, that have lots of nutrients. Although all varieties of lettuce have a high water content.

Before adoption/purchase—Food

2008-05-20T05:12:00.003-05:00

Guinea pigs require a diverse diet of pellets, hay, fruits and vegetables. It is important to feed your guinea pigs at the same time everyday, and they will remind you if you are late. A good time-table for feeding is hay and pellets in the morning and fruits and vegetables in the evening.

Pellets

Guinea pigs should only be fed pellets specially formulated for them. They should never be fed rabbit or ferret pellets.
Any large pet store will carry pellets designed for guinea pigs.
A brand should be chosen that does not include added nuts or seeds, since these should not be fed to guinea pigs.
Pellets should be changed daily.
Each piggy should be given ¼ cup of pellets each day.
If you have to change pellet brands, over the course of two weeks, gradually mix the old and new brands together using less of the old brand until your guinea pig is only receiving the new brand.
Always give your guinea pigs their pellets in a non-tipping bowl to help prevent the pellets from becoming soiled.

Hay

Timothy hay should be provided daily.
You should provide each pig with as much hay as they would like to eat.
Alfalfa hay should only be fed in moderation, if at all, because of the high calcium content within the hay. It makes a good treat (I give my girls alfalfa hay as a treat after I clean their cages).
In addition to loose hay, having a few hay blocks within the cage will give your guinea pigs a good way to wear down their teeth.
Hay can be found at any large pet store or purchased online.

Fruits

Fruits should be given to your guinea pigs two or three times a week.
Good fruits:
Apples
Bananas
Oranges (fed in moderation because the acid within the fruit can damage guinea pig gums if consumed too often)
Watermelon
Cantaloupe and honey dew melon
All the kinds of berries
Pear
Tomatoes (any green part of a tomato can be potentially deadly to a guinea pig so never feed them green tomatoes or tomato leaves)
Fruits to avoid:
Rhubarb is poisonous

Vegetables

A variety of vegetables should be available daily
Never give you guinea pigs vegetables that have been cooked in any way
Good vegetables:
All non-hot peppers
Cucumbers
Carrots
Broccoli (rainbow slaw mix is good, it contains broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage shredded together)
Parsley and other fresh herbs
Corn, on or off the cob
Green beans
Peas and pea pods
Vegetables that should be fed in moderation:
Celery should only be given to your pets if it has been chopped into tiny pieces (the stringy pieces in the celery can choke your guinea pig)
Lettuce, the high water content can give your pet diarrhea if they eat too much (only dark green lettuce varieties should given)
Vegetables that should be avoided:
Mushrooms are poisonous
Potatoes and potato skin are poisonous

How much fruits and vegetables you should feed your guinea pigs is going to depend on the individual pig. As long as your pet is eating hay and pellets at a normal amount, a large handful of hay and around ¼ cup of pellets, than you don’t need to worry that you are feeding them too many fruits and vegetables.

Before adoption/purchase—Cages

2008-05-19T02:28:00.005-05:00

It is very important to have all the necessities (cage, hay, shavings, food, water bottle) before you bring home your new pet. This will eliminate a large part of the stress your new pet is going to experience.

The cage is one of the most important necessities your guinea pig is going to require. Unfortunately, it is also one of the over-looked features of your pet’s habitat. The size, location, and layout of the cage can have an affect on your guinea pig’s behavior and happiness.

Size

Estimates of the room needed per guinea pig range from 2 square feet each to 5 square feet each or more.
To stay on the safe side, purchase the largest cage you are able to fit in your space. It is also a good idea to have a play pen for your piggies so they can enjoy some out-of-cage time.
Guinea pigs are not great climbers and do not require a cage with multiple levels.
The sides of the cage do not need to be any higher than 18 inches and a covered top is not necessary unless there are other pets in the household.

Location

The best place for your guinea pig’s cage is in a frequently visited room out of direct sunlight and away from drafts.
It is not healthy for your pig’s personality and development to be placed in a room that is infrequently visited because guinea pigs thrive on social interaction.
Heat stroke is a serious medical problem that guinea pigs are extremely susceptible to, so it is a bad idea to place them in direct sunlight for even short periods of time.
Although guinea pigs are better able to withstand cold temperatures, they can catch pneumonia if exposed to constant drafts.
Guinea pigs have exceptional hearing and should not be exposed to constant loud noise.

Layout

Within the cage there should be a spot for food pellets, hay, a water bottle, a toilet area, a sleeping area, and a playing area.
Allow your pet to show you where they would like each of these areas to be because they will move there things around and they will choose where they would like to go to the bathroom.
A gravity water bottle will keep water clean longer.
A non-tipping food bowl will keep pellets from spilling throughout the cage.

Although the initial cost of a large, fully stocked cage may seem like quite an investment, you will be able to use it for years and it will greatly improve your pet’s happiness.

Guinea Pig Care and Information--Introduction Post

2008-05-18T03:59:00.000-05:00

Guinea pigs are extremely friendly, social creatures. In the wild, guinea pigs live in complex societies within abandoned rabbit burrows. Guinea pigs make excellent pets but are more work than other rodents commonly kept as pets, such as hamsters and gerbils. Proper guinea pig care is possible with the correct information and a little support.

A few interesting guinea pig facts:

Scientific name: Cavia Tschuldi
First discovered: South America
Also referred to as Cavy or Cuy
Guinea pigs have been kept as pets for as far back as 5000 B.C.
There are over 25 breeds of guinea pigs
The rarest guinea pig breed has an all black coat
Guinea pigs do have color vision
The best age to adopt a guinea pig is five to six weeks old
Guinea pigs should be kept between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit
Each guinea pig requires 2 square feet of cage space
Aspen is the safest bedding
Exercise wheels and balls can damage a guinea pig’s back
Vitamin C supplements are a diet necessity
Guinea pigs will bite of scared
Guinea pig teeth never stop growing
Never bathe a nursing or pregnant guinea pig
Not all veterinarians are able to treat guinea pigs
Penicillin based drugs are toxic to guinea pigs

This blog is dedicated to helping guinea pig owners to better care for and understand their pets. This blog will be updated quite frequently with information ranging from guinea pig breeds to common health problems. Content suggestions and questions are always welcome.